Taipan wall5/20/2023 This is mainly because it is a highly protected National Park, where thousands of tourists visit each year to view and experience nature. Unlike places like Nowra or the Blue Mountains, the Grampians does not have many pure sport climbing areas. These old attitudes are slowly changing but a fair degree of care needs to be taken when setting off into unknown territory. Ringbolts are not common so retreating midway up a route usually requires a bail biner. Climbs still have to be committing and adventurous with some long runouts between bolts. Victorian climbers are still living somewhat in the dark ages when it comes to sport climbing when compared to our New South Wales brethren. Crimpers are not common in the Grampians. Most of the climbs require good sloper technique, forearms of steel and the ability to monkey across steep territory. ![]() ![]() Sweeping orange walls, huge heucos and steep caves are the usual attraction for sport climbers. The Grampians National Park contains some of the most aesthetic and challenging sport routes in the country. Route information for Groove Train can be found in Grampians Climbing by Neil Monteith and Simon Carter.Grampians Sport Climbing - Grade 25 and Under Of all the stars in the veritable galaxy that is the Taipan Wall, Groove Train shines among the brightest. This is sport climb in the finest Australian tradition, pairing some of the nation’s hardest climbing with some of the nation’s best rock. Then, its business time with a sustained and unforgiving boulder sequence leading to the chains. A run-out traverse across the black water streak leads to what Cossey calls “an okay rest”, but also admitting that “you’re cooking by this stage”. It waited 7 years for its first ascent.Īfter the anchor, the route undergoes a drastic change in character, becoming very thin and rather bold. After the FA of the original route by Rich Heap in 1997, the extension was equipped by Blue Mountains mutant Zac Vertrees and the venerable Mike Law. A classic in its own right, Groovy is an aesthetic line of graceful huecos, edged with heinous sloping holds. Nalle Hukkataival slopin’ his way through the huecos of Groovy (Photo by Keith Ladzinski)īriefly the hardest route on Taipan Wall, Groove Train is actually an extension of the pre-existing route Groovy. Sharma thought it was pretty neat and Megos called it “one of the best routes he’s ever climbed”. Nalle Hukkataival had a crack at it during an uncharacteristic break from pebble wrestling. Jorg Verhoeven ticked it as part of his “Big 4”, essentially the Grampians sendtrain that dreams are made of. Since then, it has garnered an international reputation, attracting a veritable who’s who of the world’s climbing elite to our shores. In the latter category is Groove Train, a sparsely bolted line which resisted the advances of many of the nation’s hardmen before finally being taken down by Ben Cossey in 2009. ![]() The man who needs no introduction on the send of Groove Train (Photo by Simon Carter) This means that features which can be traditionally protected still go on gear, and fully-bolted lines are equipped in typically minimalistic fashion. The overhanging orange-and-black rampart is home to some of the nation’s most coveted lines, established with true blue Australian climbing ethics in mind. The Taipan Wall is a climber’s wet dream, a proud feature which glows intensely in the wake of the Australian afternoon. And there are few feathers more worthy of your proverbial cap than the almighty Groove Train. It’s a route you talk about long after you’ve conquered it. ![]() It’s a route you hear about long before you see it. What binds them, regardless of grade, is the experience, the memory, the vibe of the thing…Īs I mentioned in the first 50 Classics article, a classic route is not simply a “nice climb”. This leads to a high level of juxtaposition, with low-grade rambles standing side-by-side with tendon-destroying testpieces. When I started compiling this list, it was my intent to showcase the huge variety of climbing styles in this sunburned land. Mt Stapylton in the Grampians, with the Taipan Wall aglow in the afternoon light (Source unknown)
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |